Low under the trees

Every golfer - no matter how good - ends up in trouble at some time, often among trees. What most amateurs see as a no hope situation can be turned into a positive result. Instead of chipping out sideways or bunting the ball only slightly further up the fairway, it's possible to play an attacking shot at the green.

Being able to hit the low drilling shot-often bending round trouble as well - is a valuable addition to your list of recovery shots.

The technique for hitting the low shot differs from a normal stroke in both set-up and swing, but the changes are simple. The ball is further back in the stance, the swing shorter and with less wrist break. But the most vital difference is in your club selection.
 
To keep the ball low you must use a straight faced iron - anything above a 7 iron climbs too high off the clubface and can easily tangle in the branches. If you use a 6 iron for a normal shot of 165yd (150m), you probably need either a 3 or 4 iron to hit a low shot under trees the same distance.

Which shot?

The club you choose also depends on what shape of shot you have to hit. If you need to play a deliberate hook or draw as well as keeping the ball low, a 6 iron might be enough to reach the green. Your changed set-up naturally takes loft off the clubface and makes it play like a 4 iron. The ball also runs on landing as the draw spin gains extra yardage.

When you cut the ball low and left to right, you must take more club than the yardage suggests. To play this shot you have to open up the blade - increasing its loft - so that a 5 iron becomes like a 7. The 5 then runs the risk of crashing into the branches. You must play a straighter faced club - perhaps even a 1 iron if you need to hit the ball a long way.

Thoughtful attack

One of the keys to playing this stroke well is good visualization.

Combine your thoughts on the shape of shot and clubbing with a keen awareness of the weather and state of the ground - bearing in mind that a low shot always runs on landing whatever the conditions. A low draw should usually run more than a fade - the ball has topspin on it as well as sidespin.

Your lie and other hazards between you and the green also affect your choice of shot.

Even if there are bunkers in front of the green and the flag is guarded by sand, you may be able to hit an attacking shot. There may be a way of avoiding the traps yet still reaching a corner of the green with deadly accurate aim.

But don't be over ambitious. Unless you have a realistic chance it's probably best to lay up short of the trouble and hope to pitch and putt.

Running low

1: Address
For the low running fade, aim your clubface at the target and align left. Position the ball back in your stance. Grip down the club slightly for better control, and push your hands forward. For the straight shot only your alignment should alter - you must stand parallel to the ball-to-target line. Align right to draw the ball.

2: Short controlled backswing
Your swing should be exactly the same whether you are playing a low fade, draw or straight shot. Take the club away on a shallow path with little wrist break. The backswing should be three-quarter length, and your left arm almost straight. You must still make a full shoulder turn.

3: Down to impact
Swing down with a smooth unhurried action - the harder you swing down the higher the ball flies which is dangerous. The combination of a sweeping downswing and the ball position makes for a crisp strike and the ball flies low. The ball starts left of target when you hit the fade. 

4: Extend through and stop short
Your extension through the ball should be as full as possible and your finish should be short - ensuring the ball drills low. But make sure you don't stop your followthrough too short as this leads to a stabbed shot. The combination of your alignment and aim sends the ball moving from left to right.